It snowed in them there hills near Methven. There's a pretty good view of Mt Hutt from Alex's front windows, so I knew it was time to head a little further north before winter fully set in. There's usually some pretty good clear weather to be had in May, but mornings and evening can be pretty chilly.
I contacted Jimmy, one of the packrafters I'd met on my recent trip on the Waiau, who let me leave my car at his place in Wakefield whilst I completed the Tasman's Great Taste Trail. This is a fairly sedate 200km loop around Tasman Bay from Nelson to Motueka, which then heads down the Motueka valley, over Baton Saddle to Tapawera and returns back to Richmond via a rail trail and a really really long railway tunnel.
Because it was May, the Mapua ferry that crosses the small inlet between Mapua and Rabbit Island was on a winter timetable, meaning services only on weekends. So I headed off from Wakefield in an anticlockwise direction with a plan to make the 1pm ferry.
Day 1 Wakefield to Richmond 18km; Richmond to Mapua Ferry 19km; Mapua to Motueka 26km
Jimmy's place wasn't far from the trail and soon I was tootling along on the cycle track towards Richmond, passing through Brightwater then along a dirt track beside a stream before crossing said stream on a purpose built suspension bridge. I neglected to check my navigation and headed off along another dirt track beside the stream, which soon got pretty rugged, so I had a quick look at the map, retraced my route to the bridge, and headed off north again.
The trail was quite pleasant, if somewhat suburban, but after crossing the main road to Motueka at Richmond you join up with a track that meanders along beside Tasman Bay. There are boardwalks, swampy inlets with lots of birdlife, and some eye sore factories, but it's mostly very picturesque and easy riding. Only I was now having trouble with my rear tyre deflating.
On the Mavora Lakes trip last year I had struggled with a front tyre leak, which had eventually resolved when I got home and pumped the tyre with Muc Off B.A.M, a product that pretty well seals up anything. I'd put more sealant into both tyres before heading off on this trip, and hadn't noticed any issues with either tyre until I'd been riding for about 18 km. At Richmond I pumped up the rear tyre again but by Rabbit Island it was again starting to get a bit soft.
Rabbit Island is a little island in Tasman Bay reached by a land bridge and has some lovely sandy beaches and mountain bike trails. Overnight camping isn't allowed, which is a pity because it's a gorgeous location with lots of shady pines, picnic tables, barbecues and toilets. Unfortunately I couldn't really linger there, as I needed to make the 1:10pm Mapua Ferry to give me enough time to get to Motueka before nightfall.
The ferry crossing only takes five minutes. I had fish and chips at Mapua, pumped up the rear tyre again, and cycled off. The trail follows along through the coastal strip for a while before climbing uphill for a few kilometres to a high point looking out over the bay in one direction and over the Motueka Valley towards Kahurangi in the other. I wasn't fit enough to cycle uphill the whole way, so I walked a bit of it.
By the time I got to the lookout I knew I had a problem. The tyre was deflating quicker each time, but I had no choice but to continue on, stopping regularly to pump up the slowly leaking tyre. I rolled into Motueka just on dusk, and checked in to the only backpacker still open. It was mostly full of long term residents, working in local agriculture. Quite a mix of nationalities.
It was Saturday night, and neither bike shop was open on Sunday, so I decided to stay 2 nights so I could sort out the tyre on Monday morning.
Day 2 Motueka layday
There was a Sunday Farmer's Market on, so an hour or so was spent there in the morning, but I didn't really do much at all. It had been a solid day of cycling the day before, so I didn't mind the enforced rest!
Day 3 Motueka to Riwaka 12km; Riwaka to Peddler's Rest 46km
I was up and away real early, getting to the bike shop before it actually opened, so I backpedaled down the main road and had breakfast. The bike shop mechanic very kindly looked at my bike first. He started by putting a considerable amount more sealant into the rear tyre than I had put in there. It was then that we found the culprit: a split side wall.
Side wall tears don't seal well, so there was nothing for it but to purchase a new tyre. The mechanic spent a lot of time taping the rim as he wasn't super happy with the strength of the seal, but at last I was on my way with two wheels I felt confident would get me through the next, more remote section of the trail.
The trail heads slightly north to Riwaka, crossing the river and then heads down the Motueka Valley. There's an option to continue north to Kaiteriteri on a spur trail, but not for me. I had a second coffee in Riwaka and bought a packed lunch to go, and then it was across the highway and on down the lightly trafficked Motueka River Road.
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| new rear tyre, second coffee stop |
Once past the farms near Riwaka the road meandered along beside the river. It was very peaceful and again easy cycling, with the occasional slightly uphill climb. I stopped for lunch overlooking the river then continued on, turning up the Baton Valley Road for the final 14km to my destination for the night. I'd booked a bed at Baton Run. They have some pretty quirky accommodation options, but I just stayed in the shearer's accomodation, had dinner with the owners, and retired early.
Day 4 Peddler's Rest to Tapawera 17km; Tapawera to Wakefield 31km
The morning was indeed chilly as predicted by my hosts, who had suggested I take my time setting off. From Peddler's Rest the trail crosses the Baton River on a purpose built cycle bridge and then it's a climb up to Baton Saddle at 250mASL. I was especially proud of myself as I managed to stay in the low gears and cycle up the whole way.
From Baton Saddle the dirt track descended for a few kilometres to meet the Wangapeka River, which I followed down to its confluence with the mighty Motueka, and then followed another country road upstream to Tapawera.
I stopped for a very unsatisfying coffee at a local coffee truck, bought a ridiculously overpriced lunch wrap, and headed off for Kohatu. From Tapawera the trail mostly follows an old railway line, with some small sections on trails just off the road shoulder. The railway sections are more interesting, as cycling through high sidings is quite cool.
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| Entrance to a sculpture garden/art gallery. It was closed... |
I didn't stop at the cafe at Kohatu, choosing to continue on as I was enjoying the rail trail. The route turns northward again and follows the highway for some distance, though on a purpose built trail well away from the traffic. I stopped to enjoy my overpriced lunch somewhere along that section.
And then suddenly you veer away from the highway and rejoin a rail trail. The vegetation gets thicker and moister as the walls rise on either side. Up ahead is a yawning hole. You've arrived at Spooner's Tunnel!
This was a real highlight of the trail. The tunnel is 1.4km long! I put my headlamp on and headed in. For the first third or so it's a gentle uphill, and then the gradient changes and it's a freewheel the rest of the way through the tunnel to Norris Gully. It's an absolute blast!
The trail continues downhill, so for a good 15minutes or more it's just freewheeling all the way to Belgrove, where you rejoin the main road. But soon the trail diverges again, to meander through Waiiti Domain and past a couple of large chook farms.
The final few kilometres into Wakefield follow another small stream, before rejoining the road near the town centre and following an alternative route back to Jimmy's place.
I'd got back about 3pm, so I stripped off the bags, loaded the bike on the bike rack and headed off to my next adventure.
That's next.
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