Having changed my plans to do a visa run to South Korea, I was suddenly off to a country I'd never really thought all that much about before. Going to a country with few expectations can be a blessing, because it just might be a really pleasant surprise, and if it isn't, well you aren't too disappointed.
That doesn't mean I didn't do some research. I found some great YouTube videos with lots of great suggestions for a week in Seoul, and also purchased a couple of guidebooks. Since they happened to be discounted for the Black Friday Sale, all the better...
I flew down to Perth a couple of days prior to my departure date, picked up my skibag at Nay's, sent a few more things over to Canberra, and went around to the Japanese Consulate to pick up my passport that I'd sent down a week prior on the hope and a prayer that the COE would be granted in time. They graciously returned my visa application form as well.
I took the redeye from Perth to Sydney, transferred across to the International Terminal, where I checked in for my flight to Tokyo. I'd managed to get an upgrade to Business for the Tokyo flight, so I then headed to the International Lounge for a nice shower, a change of clothes, breakfast with a couple of coffees, and a comfy armchair to sit in whilst waiting for my midday flight. I'd deliberately joined Qantas Club this year anyway, just so I could enjoy the lounges on my numerous, mostly economy, flights over these few months. Also for the increased luggage allowance.
The flight to Tokyo was delayed well over an hour leaving Sydney, but the pilot assured us he'd be able to make up some of that time. My accommodation in Tokyo only allowed checkin until 10pm, and the flight arrival time now looked to have me homeless for the night. I quickly sent off a message and they replied telling me reception would be open until 11pm so I hoped to make it in time.
The flight was very comfortable. Although it was a daytime flight I took advantage of the fully flat bed to have a decent nap after lunch, and made sure this time to take the Qantas pyjamas with me. They'd be very handy for wearing in dormitories.
Once at Haneda airport it was a fairly painless process through immigration, where I picked up my resident's card, and breezed straight through customs. Filling out the forms online and displaying the QR codes ensured a quick passage through. My next port of call was Yamato Transport, to send my skibag off to Winkel. I'd carefully packed what I would need for the next 10 days into my carryon bag, so the skibag went north, and I headed in to Tokyo on the train.
I had to make one connection only, from the airport train to the subway for one stop. I'd chosen accommodation in Asakusa because it was fairly central to a lot of places I wished to visit. I got to my accommodation with about 15 minutes to spare. Phew!!
As is usual with accommodation in Japan, my room was very small. But I had my own bathroom, and with only a small suitcase it was perfectly suitable. I didn't take long to change into my Qantas pyjamas and hit the sack!
I only had 2 days to explore Tokyo as I'd booked an overnight flight to Seoul on Monday morning. But before any sightseeing, I had business to do. I jumped on the subway to Kanda to go visit the ski stores, because I needed new skis after losing one of my Nordica's down Matukituki in September. Sure, I might find it when I get back in April, but it might be very rusty by then....
Shopping for skis in Tokyo is great, because the ski stores are all clustered in the same area. This isn't the case in Sapporo, where you need a car to get around to them all. Thankfully there is free parking at most of them. Anyway, Tokyo is easier, and there are more shops too.
I wanted a performance ski to improve my own personal skiing, and because I wouldn't get to demo them I had to rely on online reviews. I looked at a few skis, and ended up settling for a pair of Head Supershape e-Magnums that were last season's model so a reduced price. Including bindings they cost me around $1000. I discovered I couldn't get them tax-free, because I would be using them in Hokkaido this season. I was happy with the price as it was, so I also paid for them to be shipped to my accommodation in Hokkaido (an extra $25).
Business over I returned to Asakusa to visit Senso-ji Temple. It's super popular with tourists and has an entire shopping street leading up to the temple. There's no doubt the crowds detract from any sense of serenity one usually experiences at a place of worship, but the street stalls selling lunch snacks were appreciated.
I then wandered down towards the Asakusa Cultural Tourism Centre, a rather futuristic modern building with a free viewing area on the top floor. Returning downstairs I stopped in to learn how to make origami, and to design a label for a sake company. Unfortunately there were no sake samples on offer, but I did get a sake cup for my efforts!!
Next, it was a wander over the Sumida River and past the giant turd (The Asahi building has a giant yellow "flame" on top of the building, which has been affectionately renamed) towards the Tokyo Skytree. This is now the tallest tower for views in Tokyo, and requires prebooking to get in for the sunset. There are literally hundreds of people trying to take photos, but the structure of the building actually makes it hard to get good photos without paying for the professional photos, which are set up where the views are less obstructed.
It was worth the visit, as the skies were relatively clear of smog, but I wouldn't rush to go there again. I wandered back towards my accommodation, again passing by Senso-ji Temple, but this time it was less crowded and some of the shops had already closed for the evening. The nearby streets were full of restaurants, with outside tables along the sidewalks. I ended up in a fairly nondescript restaurant, but enjoyed a very tasty meal of grilled fish and a sautéed eggplant dish whilst chatting to a Japanese woman of about my vintage sitting next to me. We used a little Google Translate to get by, and it was a pleasant end to an otherwise somewhat frantic day.
After a nice sleep in, I headed back out on the excellent Tokyo public transport system to an area called Yanaka. This is an older part of Tokyo, and not heavily touristed. It also has a number of shrines and temples, so my morning was spent walking somewhat aimlessly around, visiting serene temple after serene temple.
Walking down some stairs I discovered a viewpoint where you used to be able to see Mt Fuji on a clear day. That view has now been obscured by skyscrapers, but the photos along the sidewalk gave you a glimpse of Tokyo's past, as it evolved into the modern metropolis of today.
There is a tourist street in Yanaka, where you can buy souvenirs etc, and a nice bakery or two. There's also a few coffee roasters selling beans, which is actually fairly common throughout the big cities in Japan. They are a country of coffee snobs, though you would never know it from the bad coffee that gets dispensed in many cafes.
I wandered through the very large and old cemetery in Yanaka, and down the hill to Ueno Park. Being Sunday it was hopping with people, including a couple of dance competitions, and lots of street carts. Perfect, it was lunch time!! There's also a couple of shrines and pagodas, and the gingko trees were displaying gorgeous autumn colours.
It wasn't a long walk from the far end of the park back to Asakusa. I browsed in Kappobashi Street, renowned for selling everything cooking and food related, including some very nice knives. I'd decided to have an afternoon nap as I wouldn't be getting much sleep overnight. My original hotel booking had been until the next day, so I was able to have a nice snooze, grab some food from the nearby convenience store for dinner, then shower and check out at 10pm.
I returned to Haneda airport, then had to wait to check in for my flight to Seoul. In a few short hours I'd be exploring a whole new city and country I'd never been to.
That's next...
