And just like that I'm back in Canberra, with all my luggage having successfully arrived with me, and I'm busy cooking and dehydrating for my final section of the Australian Alps Walking Track: Rumpff Saddle to Hotham.
Day 1 was a travel day. We left at 6:30 am after I failed to set my alarm for 5 am. Since I was all ready to go, it only took me 15 min to have a shower, dress and be in the car.
We drove to Bright, with a stop in Gundagai for breakfast on the way. We grabbed some lunch to go as we were meeting Hamish at 1 pm for our lift in to Rumpff Saddle. It’s a very long drive, and it wasn’t cheap, but if you need a lift in to a very remote area to start a walk, then you don’t have much choice.
Hamish had just got back from 3 months in Japan himself, free skiing and sussing out options for providing ski transportation in Japan. He’s been doing ski field transfers to Hotham and Falls Creek for a few years, and hiker transport in summer, but with the Victorian fields having very short seasons he’s looking to diversify.
Hamish dropped us off at the turnoff from Jamieson Licola Road and we walked up the Barkley Logging Rd to where we’d finished off last year. From there we headed downhill, on a very steep track that you’d have to be very skilled to negotiate in a 4WD. The track took us down to Rumpff Saddle, where we set up camp for the night. There were a few abandoned water and food caches that had never been retrieved. Big arse mosquitoes everywhere too, and a herd of cattle that came down to graze overnight.
Day 2 Rumpff Saddle to Low Saddle
We got up early and were away a little after 8. It had rained overnight so the tents were still damp, and it remained overcast for most of the day. The walking was along 4wd tracks following a ridge line. There were occasional views across to Crosscut Saw and we could see where a fire was burning to the south of us.
It was a really tough grunt up to Mt McKinty, both for us and the numerous vehicles that had previously tackled this route and left behind various bits of their cars. Mirrors, mudguards, electrical cabling, various sundry broken off bits of plastic, and far too many beer cans!!
We stopped for lunch at McKinty then continued on, making it to Mt Sunday by 3:30pm. From there a foot track made a very steep descent. Parts of the track had been cleared, but not all, so there was a lot of clambering over fallen logs, which is incredibly tiring at any time, let alone at the end of a long day.
And then there were the leeches! Matt didn’t get too many of them, but I got absolutely hammered. I must have picked off at least 20, but I still had a few on me when we got to the campsite. So I spent a little time removing all the leeches and then cleaning up the bloody mess on my legs.
We had been hauling extra water on this walk because there is very little around since we are mostly walking along ridge lines. By the time we arrived at Low Saddle neither of us had the energy to walk a couple more kms for water so we used the water we had for dinner and made a plan to resupply our water rations in the morning.
Day 3 Low Saddle to Nobs Track
We got up early as usual and headed down Low Saddle Rd to get water. We managed to find some running water a good km or so down the road but it took a long time to filter it and gain around 15 litres all up. I’m carrying a 4 litre bag plus my daily allowance of 2 litres in a separate drink bladder. Matt also has a 4 litre bag, plus a 3.5 litre bladder, plus another 1.5 litres in a second bladder.
I bought the 4 litre bags especially for this trip. They are lightweight and fairly robust, but they impart an unpleasant taste to the water stored in them, so we are mostly using them for cooking and washing up. Thankfully the taste isn’t too bad, not bad enough for me to throw up. I have a bit of a problem with weird tasting water, having never been able to stomach water that has been sterilised with iodine or disinfectant tablets. Throwing up much needed hydration isn't exactly good for my health, hence why I use filtration or a Steripen.
By the time we had got water and packed up the tents it was 11 o’clock. We decided to camp at Nobs Track as we wouldn’t have time to make it all the way to High Cone on our original itinerary.
The track up Mt Macdonald was pretty relentless. The 4wd track climbed high until heading down again, at which time we joined a walking track which followed the ridge line all the way to the top.
As we got higher we at last started getting some great views, over to Mt Buller and The Bluff.
We arrived on Mt MacDonald at 5:15pm. We took some photos, went on line for a short time, and then headed off. We needed to not waste any daylight.
It was a long ridge walk down and along for another couple of kms before we headed steeply downhill on a track that looked to have been cleared fairly recently as it was easy to follow despite the fading light. We made fairly short work of the final 2 kms, arriving at Nobs Track just at last light and were able to select tent sites before it was completely dark.
Fine mist had been heading in on our walk down so it was a somber evening having our dinner and heading to bed.
Day 4 Nobs Track to Chester’s Yards
We’d already decided to change the itinerary so we were up early again and on our way by 8:20. We followed the road for a short while across the saddle before leaving it for a track up The Nobs. There are two of them!
Next was High Cone. We thought there was an option for a low traverse, but no, up to the peak and then steeply back down again and across to a rocky outcrop that looked like a castle fortification, where we stopped for lunch.
Next we tackled Square Top which was another grind uphill and then a scrubby scramble over lots of fallen logs as the path hadn’t been cleared for some time. From Square Top it was another descent and then yet another climb up to Mt Clear.
We were taking lots of breaks but I just wasn’t able to enjoy the incredible landscape we were walking through. Just trudging!
We arrived at Mt Clear at 5:30pm and took another break. By now we were both out of water. I’d had about 4 litres on me today, Matt a similar amount, but we’d drunk it all and were still thirsty.
Mt Clear indeed had magnificent views in all directions but I didn’t even bother with a photo. Thankfully Matt has been taking lots of photos.
Once we had traversed the top of Mt Clear it was a brutally steep descent to Mt Clear Rd. We had another short break and then continued, Matt surging ahead to find the campsite and water.
I caught up with him at a big open grassy area that was marked as a campsite on our Avenza map and which Matt had incorrectly assumed was Chester’s Yards. Since there was no water we needed to continue, by now walking in the dark. I fell over a couple of times so decided not to use just the full moon but my head lamp as well.
Matt had found Chester’s and the much needed fresh spring water so we had a drink, set up our tents, had a much appreciated wash, and had a very abbreviated dinner of miso soup and sundry snacks (for Matt) then hit the sack.
There had been thunder and lightning around us and it began to rain not long after we had put up our tents. The storms blew over after a couple of hours and it was still for the rest of the night.
I knew I could not go on tomorrow so had called for a rest day.
From here we would be heading into a wilderness area so I needed to feel well enough to tackle it. I didn’t like my chances.
Day 5 Rest Day at Chester’s Yard
It was nice to sleep in, and nice to have another wash in the morning, and wash most of my hiking clothes. I’d left my shirt out in the rain overnight and that did a pretty good job of washing the sweat off. It’s still filthy though, from leech bite blood and dirt.
I was still feeling nauseated with a high resting heart rate. It was 90 in the morning coming down to 80 at midday. I was obviously suffering from dehydration and heat exhaustion and needed to rest and rehydrate.
By lunchtime I had made the decision to pull out, and Matt was supportive of the decision. We looked at exit options and messaged Hamish about picking us up. I wasn't ready to push the emergency beacon button but knew it was an option if my symptoms didn't improve.
I hadn't received any replies from Hamish, but my nausea settled mid afternoon and I began to pee more, with quite clear urine, so just before dinner I took a couple of Ibuprofen.
Another walker turned up around 4, having walked from Low Saddle that day. Matt was happy to discover he'd picked up the sunglasses Matt had dropped the day before. Eamon was doing the whole AAWT in one go, walking considerably faster than us and with minimal gear. Just a tarp and cold soaking. He was currently regretting bringing a warm insulated sleeping pad but I assured him he probably would need it at some stage. (A few days later a snow storm hit the region)!!
My heart rate had settled down and I was feeling so much better and almost keen to continue.
We’ll see what tomorrow brings!
Day 6 Chester’s Yard to Upper Howqua campsite
Eamon was looking very chilly eating his cold breakfast in the morning. He appeared to have just a thin bivy bag and no sleeping bag, just the insulated mat, inside it. And very little in the way of warm clothing! I offered him a warm drink but he declined my offer. Silly boy! He packed up and left with his tiny pack, planning to make it across Cross Cut Saw today to Camp Creek. Good on him!
We headed off about nine, following the trail until the turnoff up the King Billys. We elected to stay on the 4wd track instead and stopped where the trail rejoined, dropped our packs and walked up King Billy 1 for the views.
I’d managed to get hold of Hamish by text, as we now had cell coverage and he’d said he could talk at 11 so I rang him halfway up King Billy and worked out a pickup from Upper Howqua campsite for tomorrow afternoon. He wasn’t getting my Inreach messages so we decided to go through Jen as she was able to communicate both ways with us. We wouldn’t have phone reception down in the valley.
We continued up to King Billy, which had spectacular views across to Mt Magdala and Howitt and the Crosscut Saw. And then we went back down again, put our packs on and bid the AAWT goodbye.
We continued along the track a couple of kilometers, stopping for lunch at Picture Point which of course had more gorgeous views, and then to a lovely campsite with more spectacular views.
From the campsite we joined an unmarked track called Helicopter Spur Track which would take us right down to the campsite at Upper Howqua, but it was going to be steep!
Steep it was!! The track was mostly easy to follow but it was not for the faint hearted. There were a number of vertical down climbs through chains of rocky bluffs, one of which I took my pack off for and accidentally dropped it down the 4-5 m drop. Luckily it didn’t fall off the side! It was still a gnarly down climb even without the pack on. Matt too found it very scary so we regrouped at the bottom and regathered our nerves before continuing on.
The steepness continued for some time, but at last we were below the rocky bands and just in forest. We continued to descend the spur less steeply and then we broke out onto old management tracks which we were able to follow all the way to the river.
Somewhere through the steep bit my Fitbit watch came off my wrist. No way was I going back for it!! I’d actually synced it earlier in the day so I hadn’t lost much data, and I’d been looking to replace it anyway. Now I had a reason to!
Down at the campsite a group of men with camper trailers and caravans asked us how long it had taken us to come down Helicopter Spur. Further along were Brett and Leanne with a tray camper on their Hilux. Just past them was river access and a little further on we found a spot to camp.
We dropped our bags, took our shoes and socks off and headed down to the river. The pools were fairly shallow but the water was still cold and refreshing and it was possible to at least sit down in the creek.
After setting up our tents Leanne and Brett came over with some cold soft drinks and some water so we joined them back at their picnic table and chatted. We took our dinner over to cook at their picnic table as well, a much appreciated luxury.
We had asked Jen to message Hamish and let him know the road was clear and graded, so we had no pressure tomorrow to walk up the hill to meet him.
After dark another car turned up and camped nearby. It was a small SUV so we knew Hamish would have no problem getting in.
Day 6 Upper Howqua campsite to Bright
I had a lazy morning. We farewelled Brett and Leanne then decamped to the now vacant picnic table. The couple who arrived late had an even lazier start before heading off to camp up on Mt Howitt overnight. There’s another track, that looks much less technical, from the campsite that follows the river upstream for some way before climbing a ridge to the West Peak of Mt Howitt. Perhaps I should have considered that exit instead!
Matt went off to explore downriver and visit Bindaree Hut whilst I stayed put and read a book in the shade.
Hamish arrived mid afternoon and drove us back to our car at Bright and we booked in to a caravan park for a much needed hot shower.
I'm a little disappointed to have to abort our trip, especially as this was my final section to complete. But I spent most of the walking not enjoying the journey, not taking photos, not really appreciating the amazing scenery. Heat exhaustion and dehydration aren't at all pleasant, and are potentially life threatening, and the thought that we would have more days of ridge walking with limited water supplies, carrying large loads in hot weather, just didn't seem worth the risk.
But really it was about the enjoyment factor. I have never been suckered in to the myth of Type 2 Fun. To me, that's an exercise in cognitive dissonance, convincing yourself that all the suffering is worth the achievement. Nope!! I want to enjoy the journey whilst I'm actually doing it, and for that reason it was time to pull the plug. The Alps will still be there, and perhaps we can plan to go back at a different time of the year.
We stayed a couple of nights around Bright, doing a day walk along the river and a good climb up to Mt Buffalo, and then drove back to Canberra.
So my AAWT journey isn't quite complete yet...
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