Hut bagging up the Poulter

Over the last few weeks I've been using Methven as a base, visiting my friend Alex and borrowing her shed to leave a few items whilst heading off on various trips. Since I was planning a multiday tramp up the Poulter, I decided to leave my bike at Alex's place rather than risk leaving it at a roadend.

I drove up to Andrews Shelter and camped there overnight so I could get an early start the next morning. It seems to be fairly popular as an overnight camping spot for camper vans, with 3 other vans parked there overnight.

Day 1: Andrews Shelter to Turnbull Biv

I woke up early to a hard frost, had some breakfast, did a final packup and set off just after 8:30. Another chap was also walking via Binser Saddle, heading to Casey Hut for the night, having driven down to the track start, left his pack there and then driven back to park his car at the end of the Andrews Track. That allowed him to walk along the road somewhat faster than me and he was well gone by the time I arrived.

It was a gentle stroll down the dirt road, with a couple of cars passing by, neither stopping to offer me a lift. One of the cars was parked at the track start, its occupant preparing to climb Mt Binser, and he did indeed apologise for not stopping. It had been a perfectly pleasant walk with great views so I wasn't bothered at all.

The track was steep and rough at first but then was mostly a gradual climb with a few short steep grunts, and quite a fair amount of sidling on the same contours to get to Binser Saddle. The track was through thick beech forest, still thick with the stench of fermenting honeydew. There were a lot of wasp bait stations nailed to trees, I can only imagine how bad the wasps must be in summer. Too cold now for them to be a problem.

Binser Saddle

The frost was still thick on the ground at Binser Saddle, with quite a flat expanse to traverse that would probably make a nice campsite. The descent was steeper than the ascent, and there was a lot more windthrow to get around. The final descent to Pete's Creek was very steep and crumbly but the creek was low enough to cross easily without getting wet feet. 

South Island Robin/Kakaruwai

I stopped at the creek for lunch, and to replenish my water supply, then continued on. Not long after I set off again I ran into the fellow from this morning. The sole on one of his boots was beginning to delaminate so rather than push on to Casey Hut he has turned around and was returning the way he had come. A good call but I didn't envy his steep climb back up and then the walk back to his car!!

The track along the Poulter is an old 4wd track, mostly grass, which follows along on a terrace above the river. It's easy walking and it didn't take me much more than an hour to get to the turnoff for Turnbull Biv. Not that there's any signage for it, you just have to follow the route on the topomap. 

I had a couple of attempts to cross the river, the second time at a better spot where the river divides and was less deep. Then I had to find the creek I would follow up. The terraces are really high above the river on the true left and the Biv is up on one of these terraces. 

I found the creek bed, which was dry, and began heading up it. A few cairns reassured me I was going the right way. There was a little wood in the creek bed, so a bit of clambering was required. I couldn't find a marker indicating where the track climbed out of the creek to the terrace, but followed the advice on hutbagger to stick to the route on topomap. There was a side creek, so I made my way up that. Either people or animals had also come this way, but it was rough and unstable ground that needed to be crossed to make it to the top. A little bush bashing at the very top and I was up on the terrace. I walked out of the shrubs to see a DoC pole, and realised I had under shot the official track. Ah well, tomorrow…

Up here

From there it was an easy walk up across tussock to the wee Biv nestled in just on the edge of the beech forest. According to the hut book, wasps are real bad there, but now there were only a few still flying around.

The sun was still shining in the clearing so I put the solar panel out to charge my phone and went down to the creek to get water. It's quite a scramble. I took a bucket as well as my Platypus bladder, and when I returned was able to get the wet shoes and socks off and get a bit of sun on them. After a cup of tea and rehydrating my dinner, I debated whether to have a fire, deciding for it in the end. It's an open fire and once I got it going it wasn't very smoky at all. There were heaps of fire lighters in a bag, and dry wood ready to go which makes a big difference. 

I'd already collected some wood for the shed, as the general hut etiquette is to at least replace what you use. Looking at the hut book there's maybe 2-3 parties that visit over the whole winter, most visitors are during the summer months. The fire made a big difference, making the hut lovely and warm and cosy. A hot chocolate with rum was just dandy, then off to bed, food bags all hung to deter mice.

Day 2: Turnbull Biv to Poulter Hut

Another frosty morning with me not getting away till about 8:20. This time I followed the marked track down to the creek. It was very steep and I ended up sliding down on my bum a few times deliberately. The final bit to the creek bed had been fully washed out and was too big a drop so I sidled along to the creek I had climbed up yesterday and found my way into that, then down to the creek and back to the Poulter. 

the official track....

I found a good spot where the river braided, fairly similar to yesterday's crossing with one section being a bit deeper and stronger flowing. I suspect the river had dropped a bit too. Once across I found the 4wd track and continued upstream. Regaining the track took about an hour.

Cross where it's wide, and braided

It wasn't fun walking with wet feet. I'd decided to wear my waterproof socks but it didn't really help my feet feel any better. I suspect that I would be more comfortable if my shoes were quick drying, rather than the Goretex lined Hoka Kaha trail shoes I've been using recently. The Kahas have really robust leather uppers, and have fared much better to the abuse they get on the AAWT. My Hoka Speedgoats didn't cope well at all on the AAWT, developing holes in the webbing uppers from the sticks and scrubby undergrowth, but they do drain water out pretty quickly. Perhaps better suited to wet NZ than dry scrubby Australia...

It took just under 2 hours to Casey Hut, where I stopped for a while and took my shoes and socks off to let them dry a little. Inside the hut was like a refrigerator, but outside in the sun the sandflies were a problem, so I didn't stay long. 

I followed the track to where it branched. Straight ahead up to Casey Saddle, or cross the stream to continue up the Poulter Valley. Wet feet again! 

The track stayed in the trees and was really pleasant walking. I could see where I would need to go if I'm going to visit Ranger Biv. Still on the maybe list.

 

The feet were giving me grief so I was happy to arrive at Trust Poulter Hut, take my shoes and socks off for a while, put out the solar panel to recharge my beacon and phone, and have lunch in the nice sun-warmed hut. There was a cold wind blowing down the valley so to be sheltered in there for a while was awesome.

Again I didn't stay long, heading off again at 2:20 for the final push to Poulter Hut. This meant walking up the river bed and crossing wherever seemed good. The river was now pretty shallow, so crossing anywhere was going to be easy. I spied the orange markers on the opposite bank indicating the path to the hut, and soon I was there. 

First job was lighting the fire and then getting the wet socks up high where they could dry. It's a modern hut with a wood stove so I just needed to keep the wood supply up. Which meant chopping some more. Being Saturday night I thought there was a small chance that someone would make it up that far, but no-one else showed up. All wood chopping devolved to me!! 

Dinner was soup for starters, then chicken curry, followed by a hot chocolate/spiced rum toddy.

Day 3 Day trip to Minchin Pass

Well that was the plan. Minchin Biv at least. I'd set the alarm for 6:10 because I'm waking up that early anyway. After coffee and an OSM I got away about 7:30. There was frost on the ground outside as expected. Both nights had been clear with lots of stars, especially as the moon was waning.

The track is a gorgeous wee track through mossy beech forest with a log to cross the first stream. There's some whio in that stream, I scared them on my way back.

The track follows the stream up to Lake Minchin, though you are some way from the stream itself. Skirting around the lake was fun, with some great views across to a multiple drop waterfall. There were some unstable scree to sidle across and one down climb where a rope had been installed for added protection. 

Once at the head of the lake the stream was crossed and the route followed up the valley, crossing the stream a couple more times before heading up to avoid a big gorge. The gorge looks to be quite deep and a good 500m or more long. The climb was steep and boggy but the views at the top were fantastic. 

The track then sidles across high above the gorge and is fairly exposed. There was a cold wind blowing and from the top I could see the stream below and what looked like the hut not too far away. 

halfway up, looking back down the Minchin towards the lake

I'm pretty sure Minchin Biv can be seen in the distance

It looked pretty simple. Another 1.5 hours I thought.

The track down to the stream was steep but short. The track joined the stream just upstream from where it entered the gorge. I crossed the stream and followed the cairns upstream. Soon enough it became apparent that there was no track, just the stream, and there was barely room on either side to walk up. I crossed it a couple of times, did some bush bashing along what appeared to be bits of cairn marked track, but eventually decided that the going was getting too tough. I still had about a km to go and the rocks were not only slippery but the rapids getting bigger with deep pools that I couldn't find a way around. I was already wet to my waist, but these pools were deeper. So I turned around and began my return journey.

I got a little bit higher than this point before turning around

I stopped for lunch at the start of the gorge, clambering down to get a better view. It's very impressive, with a number of crashing cascades before disappearing into the steep sided gorge.

After my lunch break it was back up the hill and down the other side. I walked up the stream a little way to see if I could see the exit of the gorge but it looked to be a bit further away around more bends so I gave that up and walked back to the lake, around that and back to Poulter Hut. I arrived back just after 3. I wasn't upset to have not made it to the Biv, the walk was well worth it and I'd love to do it again, perhaps when it's warmer and with longer daylight hours.

Back at the hut I cut up more firewood, including the dry logs I'd brought back down the track with me. I started to head off to Worsley Biv, but decided at 3:30 it was just too cold and I could leave that for tomorrow. I was still undecided about Ranger Biv.

Another cosy night in the hut with no other trampers turning up.

Day 4 Poulter Hut to Casey Hut

There were very gusty winds overnight. I woke up before 6 to go to the loo so decided to get up. It was still very dark outside since there was not only no moon, but no stars either. As it got light I noticed lots of dark clouds around which got me quite worried about rain, as I still had a couple of rivers to cross. So I sent off an Inreach weather forecast which said no rain was forecast for the day. It didn't look like that to me!

I got going just after 7:30, heading up to Worsley Biv. I decided to take my pack so I didn't need to backtrack to the hut on the way back and could take a more direct line down the valley. It was very windy, but not cold, with clouds shrouding the peaks, but nothing that looked like imminent rain. 

The walk involved following the gravel stream bed, and crossing the Poulter to the true right, then crossing Trug Stream, neither crossing being of concern. I dropped my pack after 30 minutes as I knew I would take that same route back, so the second half of the walk over the bouldery stream bed to Worsley Biv was much easier. 

The Biv is tucked in to some trees, marked by big orange triangles and a cairn. It's an absolute beauty. No fireplace but very cosy all the same. I wrote in the hut book and took some photos and then headed back.

Reunited with my pack I began the long trudge back down stream to Trust Poulter Hut. I had to cross the Poulter again to the true left above Poulter Hut, but stayed out on the shingle rather than taking the track near the hut. I probably didn't save any time, as the shingle is hard work. I crossed the Poulter again, back to the true right and found some easy grassed terraces to walk along, but inevitably there were more crossings required as the stream cut in. Never mind, with the wind behind me it wasn't too bad. Later, the wind seemed to drop a bit as the sun came out and the clouds lifted a bit, but it was no bluebird day today.

Soon I was back on the track to Trust Poulter, passing by the hut about 3 hours after leaving this morning. No chance of going to Ranger Biv as a side trip. With the weather looking dodgy I wanted to stay on this side of the river just in case it rose. It might not rain here, but if it rained in the mountains that would end up in the river. Plus I didn't really fancy walking 600m uphill with a full pack. Call me a sissy!!

It took another 1.5 hours to get to Casey Hut. I followed the 4wd track across Casey Stream rather than the tramping track, both crossings being level and shallow. I arrived just after 12. A couple of parties had stayed Saturday night, walking back out on Sunday. There's a well stocked wood shed but the hut itself is bloody freezing, so after lunch I lit the fire to warm the place up. 

I put the solar panel out to charge devices, though the sun was coming and going with lots of clouds building up and the wind was picking up as well. I ran another forecast later in afternoon which predicted strong winds and 90% rain ( though only 0.4cm) tomorrow. Another strike against visiting Ranger Biv.

The wood heater warmed the hut really well. I cut up enough wood to restock supplies for the next visitors and then just had to feed full logs. But once heated, the hut got very warm indeed. I ended up with a window open and only my sleeping bag liner when I went to bed, but I managed to dry all my clothes, and to do all my cooking on the stove top and save my gas. Lots of cups of tea and soup so got myself well hydrated.

Day 5 Casey Hut to Andrews Shelter

As expected the hut was quite cold in the morning, but not as cold as when I had arrived yesterday. After breakfast and the usual hut clean and firewood restock, I was away at 7:45.  Casey Hut has solar lighting, a nice touch, but I imagine annoying if you are sharing the hut with others on different timelines.

The sky was completely clear, not a cloud in sight, but a heavy frost on the ground. This time at the junction I headed up the track alongside Casey Stream. The first bit climbs fairly steeply, but then it's just gentle climbing as it traverses up the valley above the river. There were lots of birds singing, especially bellbirds, and I think I may have glimpsed a kakariki, which are endangered. 

I climbed up onto tussock terraces to Casey Saddle, where it was still very frosty and cold, with moss hanging from the trees, and a boardwalk right across a large area that is probably quite swampy, but currently very dry. Tussock terraces continue down from the saddle right along to Hallelujah Flats. Gotta wonder what's up ahead with that name. 

Cool ice crystals by the side of the track

From Hallelujah Flats the track sidles next to the stream and then enters the bush again. There's lots of up and down through the forest with one section containing big old trees. I passed an Italian couple doing the Casey Binser loop, and some chap on a day walk. After lunch the going changed, with some really steep descents interspersed by very flat sections. There was a final steep descent down to the Andrews River and a short walk back to the car at the shelter.

It was only 2:30pm. So I had a cuppa, changed into new clothes and drove back to Methven.

I'm pretty keen to visit the Poulter again, and especially to head up the Binser valley again. It was really special in there, and next time I'll bring the packraft. So I can visit the waterfall across the lake, and paddle back down the Poulter and maybe down the Waimakariri as well. With company of course! And I still have to bag Ranger Biv!

That's for another trip...